The working man’s white Burgundy. What a pleasure, and a refreshing view of the world’s finest terroir through the lens of the OTHER Burgundy varietal (and close Chardonnay cousin) Aligoté. Top example from one of the great domaines in Puligny. Bosc pear, green apple, wet stone and clean linen come through on the nose. The wine asserts itself on the palate with a tight mineral core, very lean on the fruit. This medium-full wine is dry and quite drying with a salty finish, just dying for food. Seafood tapas, Thai fried chicken wings and New England clam chowder come to mind immediately for pairings. W.M.